Flower Girl Dress, Part 9: Zipper

Though I've been installing zippers for years and years, and once did a fair number of zipper flys (not recently though) figuring out how to do the lapped zipper took some preparation. The added layer of complication of having the zipper extending from the bodice into the bottom layer of the skirt only, with the netting floating on top gave me some pause. Plus for some reason lapped zippers have a mysterious way of seeming straight-forward enough but confusing me once I'm actually trying to execute one. Finally I came upon a set of instructions in one book that didn't make any sense when I was reading through it, but which works wonderfully in practice. And this is what I did:

First, I folded over and pressed a ス" margin on the raw edge of one bodice back piece and a 1" margin on the other (lapped) side. Then I unfolded, lined up the raw edges, and basted ス" from the edge, using the ス" fold line as my guide.

I opened up the seam and finger-pressed it down, then placed the zipper, face down on top. I basted it in place, through the seam allowances only, putting my stitches シ" from the edge (half way between the edge and the zipper teeth.) Then I went back and machine stitched on that same line and zig-zagged the edges to stop the fraying of the satin. With the basting still in place, I re-folded the 1" press line which magically gives you the lap.

I carefully pinned through the top of the satin to the zipper, then basted. Then I machine stitched the other half of the zipper, undid the basting and finally machine stitched on the lapped side, moving the zipper head out of the way as necessary. I hand stitched the part of the zipper in the lining skirt to save my sanity.

Continue: Part 10, Try-On & Finishing.

- Victoria, 2012-04-21

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